由這裏開始要做一些外國網站資料翻譯的工作, 希望能對大家有所助益.

內容分為基本及進階兩大部分

基本篇

Bike setup


MOD - Flat bar angle: Have the bars angled about 10-15 degrees back from straight up. Having the bar like this will make you more stable on the rear. The way to do it is to look at the bike from the side while it is leaning against a wall.

STOCK - Flat bar angle: Have the bars angled to have the angle about 15-20 degrees back from straight up. The way to do it perfectly is to look at the bike from the side while it is leaning against a wall.

Brake lever position: Slid in far enough so that when I have my hand all the way out on the grips and stick my index finger straight forward, I can just grab the end of the lever. One finger braking all the time.

Brake lever angle: Somewhere around 35-40 degrees or less down from horizontal. The key is to have the brake levers set so that with your finger on the lever, you are able to have the top of your hand be parallel with the top of your forearm (so that your wrist is not angled up or down, causing injury to your wrist).

Brake lever pull: Set so when I squeeze hard, they're almost parallel with my handlebar. This is more personal preference than anything else. It is a lot easier on my wrists than having just a little pull. It also allows you to pull up the bar easier, with a better full-hand grip, even with the brakes locked. Be aware that the more pull you have before the pads hit, the less power you're going to have, usually... I like my brakes set so they're perfect without dialing the TPA's in at all...

Chain tension: The tighter the better. Supertight can wear out freewheels quickly, however... Take a look at this picture to see the difference between good chain tension and unacceptably loose chain tension. (see photo)

Tire pressure: - This is one of the most important things! I generally recommend running the least amount of pressure you can without pinchflatting or having the sidewall fold. I run about 25 psi front (IRC MinuteMan 2.1) and 20-25 rear on my mod bike (fatwall monty tire), and I weigh about 173 lbs. I run 26 psi front and back on my stock bike (Hutchinson Python Gold 2.0 front, Tioga Factory DH 2.3 rear). If you bottom out the rear, increase tire pressure. If your rear feels like it's gonna fold off to the side, increase tire pressure (I run up to 25 psi in the rear of my mod when I ride on pointy rocks (this would be like 35 psi on the x-lite skinwall mod rear tire)). If your body (probably your wrists, knees, lower back) hurts from riding, it MAY be that your tire pressure is too high. Another thing it might be is the angle of your brakes, or your stem/bar setup, or just plain your bike. Or you could just need to ride more. :-)

Extra tips:
Platform or caged pedals (no clipless or toeclips, you'll scrape yourself up)

Have your brakes set up right so that they're strong. If they don't quite lock up enough (this is for non-ground rims only) stick strips of scotch-brite inbetween your pads and rim, and ride around for like 15 minutes with the brakes almost locked up. Roughen up the pads with sandpaper or emory paper. Doing all this will improve locking up and braking overall (great for XC, too).

If you use tar, clean your rims occassionally. Spray some Simple Green degreaser onto your rims and pads and ride around squeezing your brakes.. This gets the tar into a liquid form so you can just wipe it off with paper towels... Doesn't seem to leave any residue, either... A lot easier than trying to clean it with paper towels and some paint thinner... Let the rims dry before you ride.. or ride to get your rims dry (just don't expect much until they do dry!!). I always stress that tar and/or grinding your rims is NOT important until you are around sport/expert level. (Plus, a good grind without tar is fine for practically all Pros...) Actually, pathetic brakes will make you a better rider. Don't tar or grind your rims if you use your stock bike for XC, too, (unless you want to go deaf or go over the handlebars when you ride XC and grab a load full of front brake).

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Wear Protective Gear

Please wear appropriate protective gear when riding bike trials. This means at the least wearing a properly-fitting helmet, and preferably gloves and shinguards as well. Gloves help prevent calluses and protect your hands in crashes, as well as give you better grip. Shinguards will help protect your shins from your pedals. If your front foot slips off the pedal, all your weight will go onto your back pedal, spinning the other pedal backwards and into your shin. Just about any experienced trials rider can tell you how painful this is, and has the scars to prove it. Plenty of bicycle apparel companies make shinguards, and some riders even use soccer (football) shinguards.

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Stretching

There are various arguments for and against stretching before working out. I recommend doing your own research on the topic, and finding what works best for you. I do not stretch before riding, but instead do a slow warm-up on the bike. I do stretches after rides to lessen tightness and soreness, and stretch occassionally throughout the day to maintain a relatively limber body. Here are some Stretches for Bicycling that you may find useful

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Trackstand


Encouragement:


The very first thing to learn is the trackstand. This is where you balance on your bike, trying to move your wheels as little as possible. This is the hardest thing for most people to learn (at least for me it was), so don't get frustrated at yourself when you suck at it. It took me about 2 months, I think, before I could do it decently well. The most important thing is PRACTICE, the more you try to trackstand, the better you're going to get at it. You'll see, I promise...

Instruction:

Find a slight uphill on concrete.

Figure out which foot is your "good" or "forward" or "chocolate" foot, the foot you are most comfortable having in front

Get on your bike and roll forward, put your good foot forward

Roll to a stop (don't use your brakes at all in this excerise)

Keep your pedals level with level ground (this goes for pretty much all the time in trials)

(so if you're on a hill, don't keep your pedals level with the hill, keep them level with imaginary level ground)

Turn your wheel away from your forward foot about 45 degrees (left foot forward, turn the wheel to the right; or right foot forward, turn left)

Why? - turning your wheel away from your forward foot will be better for your lower back. For example, if your left foot is forward, your hips will point to the right. To keep from twisting your spine (especially in the lower back), your shoulders should be pointing to the right as well, hence the wheel to the right for left foot forward.

Try to maintain your position on the hill by pushing lightly on your front pedal

A rocking motion will probably help... Push on the pedal enough to go forward, then let off and roll back a bit. Rinse and repeat. Er, I mean repeat.

Keep your head way forward, almost over your front axle

Keep your arms close to locked straight

Keep your front leg pretty straight

Keep your back leg bent a little, and use it for balance along with turning your wheel and shifting whatever body mass you can around over the bike (sounds hard because it is, it will get natural after a lot of practice, only now after over a year of riding am I VERY comfortable with balancing on most anything)

Look about 6 feet forward - it's easier than looking straight down

And most important: Try to relax. Trying to control the bike is only going to make you sore. When you have learned to balance, trackstanding is nearly effortless.

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Rear Wheel Pivot

This is where you hop your front wheel either to your left or right, keeping your rear brake locked.

To pop your front wheel up:
Keep your rear brake locked

Squish your body and arms over the front of your bike

Then push up and lean back a little

Borrowing from Ot Pi School: Make your body like a suspension... like a pogo stick...

After you get the popping your front wheel up thing down, try leaning to one side when you squish down (so if you didn't bounce up, you would fall off your bike to that side). Then when you pull up, you'll automatically pivot that way.

Another thing to remember is that if you land with your weight directly over the bike and with the bike straight up, you'll lose your balance in that same direction. So land with your weight away from the bike, and maybe with the bike angled a little bit, so when you land and soak up the impact sideways like that, you'll be perfectly trackstanding again.

Try going around in a complete circle with little pivots (it'll probably take you like 20 or more little pivots to get all the way around). You won't be able to make it all the way without practice, so do it until it makes sense

Once you've got that down, try to get further in your pivots (this is much more advanced, you should probably skip it and come back to it later...):
You still want to lean in the way you want to go, but you'll want to do a kind of preload FIRST.

A preload is where you lean the BIKE the opposite way of the way you want to go (it's weird, I know, but you'll thank me later on)

So to do it, lean your bike the opposite of the way you want to go, and turn you handlebars opposite, too (if you can, straight is ok). Also twist your hips the opposite way. This is all something you do at once, for a very brief moment, then you explode into your turn, twisting your hips, pulling the handlebars in the direction you want to go. You can get up to 180 degrees with this method, and if you toss in leaning way back and keeping the handlebars real close, you should be able to make 360 degrees (although the point of this completely escapes me...)

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Pop Front Wheel Up Without Brake

This is handy for getting up curbs, and starting to learn how to bunnyhop.

Pretty much you want to do the same thing as the rear wheel pivot... squish your arms, then push and pop your butt back and down, and voila, the front wheel will come up.

When you get good, you should be able to pop it up so high that you fall off the back of the bike (another good reason NOT to be using clipless pedals).

Try going up a curb. Don't worry, if you hit it at 5 mph, it isn't really going to hurt you or your bike.

Right before you reach the curb, pop up the front.

Here's where we separate the roadies from the mountain bikers or trials riders...

As your rear wheel approaches, put your head over your front axle and sort of jump up a little bit (called unweighting the rear), so when your wheel hits, it bounces up and over the curb. Not the best way of getting up a curb, but it works for now, until you can pop your rear wheel up.

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Front Wheel Pivot

This is where you hop your rear wheel either to your left or right, keeping your front brake locked.

To do this, you want to turn your handlebars away from you so when you land, your handlebars are straight in front of you (so, opposite of the way your rear wheel is going). Instead of the suspension being your arms, it's now more your legs. With your front brake locked, you must squish down a bit, pop forward and to one side, and move the bike with your hips (push it out toward your landing spot). I think the hips thing is key to getting any amount of distance. A lot of trials is about throwing your BODY MASS a certain direction, and then letting the bike follow or pulling it with you. This is especially true with the sidehop. You won't have to think about that for a while, though... ;-p


Pop Rear Wheel Up Without Brake

This move is, as far as I'm concerned, the foundation of the bunnyhop, and will just plain make lots of moves you want to learn easier and make more sense. Your weight back while just rolling along slowly, jump and throw your weight way forward and push down and forward on the handlebars. You "unweight" the pedals... You'll learn it. You just have to get a feeling for how little weight you can put on the pedals without your feet flying off. When you're doing this move well, you can get your rear wheel surprisingly high, in which case you can probably do 180s on the front wheel now, so try it by rolling along and mixing together the front wheel pivot and this move.

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Up Stairs Pivoting

So, you think you're pretty good now, huh? You're all rear wheel and front wheel pivoting... Great! Now get accurate. I'd recommend going up stairs first, just because if you lose your balance going DOWN stairs, you might hurt yourself. Which reminds me, just stick to the first 2 or 3 stairs in a staircase. Pivot your front wheel on the first stair, then pivot your rear up and on the first stair... This is hard, so practice it. Come back down, too, rear tire first, then front. When you get good at this, go rear wheel up first, then front. Then front wheel down first, then rear wheel.


Hopping In Place

Hopping in place is handy for keeping your balance on off-camber things like rocks. You try to maintain your balance, but when you start to lose it, you hop to correct your balance. Both brakes locked, squish down and push on the pedals and pull up, then absorb the landing with your whole body. If you've learned to bring up the rear wheel without brakes, you should be able to do this. Once you've got hopping in place down, try hopping up stairs. Put your front wheel one or two stairs up, and lean your body the direction you want to go, and hop. Hopefully you'll get your rear tire up one stair, and your front tire will go up one more stair, too... Trying going down the same way. Stairs are awesome for doing weird stuff like this, and they're very safe compared to rocks. Another way of keeping your balance when trackstanding isn't an option is pivoting. Keeping both brakes locked you make little pivots on either your front or rear wheel (you've gotta figure out which in what circumstances yourself) when you lose your balance. I generally try to pivot on my rear as much as possible, since it requires less energy than moving the rear around. This is also handy for inching your way over to the edge of something to drop off, or orienting yourself right to do a big move like a sidehop, or getting your aim right and your balance set before you do a pedal-up or whatever.

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Getting Up Stuff

Now that you can go up and down stairs, you can go for bigger things, too, just as long as you can get your front tire on it (well, it's difficult to get on really high things this way, but this'll work up to around 14" objects...). Pivot your front wheel onto it, then work your way around so you are facing the object with your front wheel on it. Roll forward and put your good pedal down on the object (if your bashring hits, go back and do a little hop (like lifting your rear wheel) while rolling forward to get it on top). Now this is the fun part, getting up. You need to have your weight directly over the the bottom bracket, then shift all your weight forward onto the front pedal (like you're trying to pedal into the object) and pull the bike up and forward. The bike should roll up under you. Your first time, you probably will only get a little bit of your wheel up, and then roll back, but keep going at it and thinking about it, and you'll get it soon enough.

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進階篇

More advanced moves:

Sidehop Drop Off

Safest way to drop off something before you're really comfortable on the rear wheel (rear wheel drop offs are easier on your bike and body when you do them right (explained later), but much more dangerous if you mess up). Pivot to the edge of the drop, crouch down and let your balance sway over towards the landing spot, then when you're ready (you don't have all day, if you take too long, the wheels will get stuck and you'll fall and the bike will hit you), jump up a bit (or pull the bike up off the ledge by the handlebars if you want to do it the advanced, better way) to get your wheels off the ledge, then as you start falling towards your target, pull the handlebars toward your chest and push your legs out towards the ground. This way, you'll land rear wheel first and make it nice and soft. Try to absorb most of the impact on the rear wheel, your bottom bracket and cranks (and your body) will thank you. You can make 5 foot drop offs look like nothing when you get this technique down.
Rear Wheel Hop Backwards - [ Back to Overview ]
When you're ready to start learning the rear wheel hop and pedalkick, you should learn to rear wheel hop backwards first. Just lock the rear brake, lean way forward, then just pull back (no hop, just pull back) and start hopping backwards. If that doesn't quite get you back on the rear tire, then try this: Put your butt down a lot more, cuz from what I remember, the butt has a lot to do with it (I kinda forget, it's second-nature now). Once you get that far, toss a pedal-kick in, and then learn to stay in the same spot on your rear wheel (keep your arms BENT, otherwise you'll WASTE your lower back and shoulders). Then learn pedal-kicking forward..


Rear Wheel Hop In Place

Once you get that far, try to stop hopping backwards and stay in the same place. It's hard, but eventually you'll get it. This is also a good time to work on your form. You'll want to keep your arms BENT, not straight, otherwise you'll WASTE your lower back and shoulders. Another good tip is to keep your cranks LEVEL with the ground... If your front pedal is higher than your rear, you almost have to hop backwards. Best way to fix that is to use a pedal kick to get yourself on the rear and your cranks level with the ground. If you have a hard time keeping them level, you're probably leaning back to far, so you should pull the handlebars toward you more (like I told you to... ;-p).


Pedal Kick

Once you've got that down, you should try pedal kicking. To do this, stop hopping and let your front wheel drop a little (maybe 1/4 the way to the ground at the beginning), then kick! The kick is kind of weird to learn, but you'll get it with time. The trick is letting the power of your pedal kick out with your brakes. With your rear brake locked, push hard on the pedal, THEN release the rear brake, keep pushing with your foot and shoot forward, then reapply the brake when you land on the rear. This is hard, I'll admit, but if you practice, you will get better at it.

When this starts making sense to you, try dropping your front wheel more before you kick, and kick harder.. you'll get further. Then try putting your butt way the heck back, letting the front drop almost to the ground, then launch your hips toward the stem and kick when you're about halfway to the stem (maybe even closer to the stem: one beginner found that he could get 2 feet further by putting his weight more forward so to get more power out of the kick). You should be able to clear gaps of more than a wheelbase doing that. I can get about 6 feet, and I've heard of people getting something like 10 feet or more (look at the above video clip, cesar does like an 8 foot gap)Want more distance? Learn to surge well and you will get further.

Advanced: How to land balanced on the rear wheel after clearing a huge gap
The trick to landing rear wheel and balanced after clearing large gaps is to push the rear wheel out and into the landing spot with your legs. The same time you push your legs out, you'll want to pull the handlebars towards your hips, such that the bike is almost vertical in the air when the rear tire hits. You also want to absorb the landing well by not actually pushing hard with your legs until you have already bent them a lot (this allows your body to position itself over the bike perfectly so that you end up balanced). [Updated: 10/15/99]


Rear Wheel Drop Off

Beginner: This is the best way to drop off if it is SAFE to do so. If you are at all sketchy (not sure) about the object you are going to drop off of, don't do it. You can go over the handlebars and seriously hurt yourself. Try this on something flat first. Urban stuff is great. Go for a curb at first. Front wheel at the edge, pedal-kick to the edge, let the front drop, pedal-kick again to go down. Land rear wheel first just like in the sidehop drop off description.

Advanced: Next try hopping closer and closer to the edge before dropping your front and kicking. The closer you are to the edge, the more important it is to let your front drop way down (level with rear tire) and the less important it is to kick hard. If you are right at the tip, you may not even have to kick, just let the brake go and push with your legs. The most advanced version of this drop is where you get all the way to the very tip, drop your front wheel a little past level with the rear while your body is crouched over anywhere from the frame to the rear tire (butt a little bit behind the bottom bracket is most comfortable for me), then kick or push your rear wheel down while pulling your handlebar towards your chest, and absorb the landing with your rear tire first, then a good amount with the front tire when it comes down (don't have your weight entirely over the rear or you'll make the drop hard on your body). Mimic this with your bike.. Lift it up, put the rear on the object, and let the front drop, then shoot the rear down and see that doing the drop this way actually makes the drop smaller in essence... You can make dropping off a picnic table look and feel like falling as far as you are when hopping off a curb (and you actually are only falling about that far if you're doing it right). Think of it this way, too, if you'd like. If you're on something high just on foot, when you want to jump off, do you just walk off, without bending your knees? No, you bend your legs a ton, maybe even let your feet slip off the edge and shoot down towards the ground... Same exact idea put into use on bikes.

Slightly different viewpoint: I asked my friend Steve Young, big-move Hawaiian rider, how to do BIG drops (8+ feet). He's done 12 foot drops before on his mod, and he says that you don't want to land all on the rear wheel because then the shock will go straight through your body (like landing with your knees locked without the bike). He says what you want to do is come off flat and push the rear tire down at the last second so your back tire hits first, and get your weight way back to absorb the shock, but let the front wheel come down and absorb some of the shock.



Pedal-Up

This is where you pedal all the way through the jumping to get onto on object (either to bashguard, both wheels, or rear wheel (or front wheel, but I consider that kind of pointless)). A bunnyhop-up differs in that you first gain speed, and then coast along before you do the up. A pedal-up is useful when you don't have as much space for an approach. At first, though, just try rolling slowly forward with nothing in front of you, with your bad foot forward, crouch down, then pull up (not back) on the handlebars as you pump down hard with your bad foot to do the real work of bringing up the front, and continue your spinning to your front foot forward, and you should just pop up into the air... You don't even really have to lift your legs to get your bashguard onto small things, and you'll land good foot forward... If you push your handlebars up and forward and bend your legs, you can get both wheels up on something. If you just push the handlebars up and bend your legs, you can go to rear wheel. Just make sure you trust your brakes and that you stick your legs out so you can absorb the landing and not trust the grip of what you're jumping onto or the grip of your brakes too much... After you've learned doing it starting from a slow roll, try doing it from stopped about 1.5 wheelbases or so back from the object with your good foot forward. Use your good foot pedal stroke to pick up speed, then your bad foot to lift the front and get up, just like before. Then try a little closer. To pick up enough speed now, you're going to need to put your weight far back (almost so much so that your front wheel lifts), then throw your weight forward and pedal hard. Your good foot pedal still gives you the forward momentum, and then spinning fast on the bad foot pedal is the trick for getting up something in tight circumstances. If you have the problem of getting your bashguard on the object, but quickly losing your balance backward, you either need to lean INTO the object, or you need to start closer to the object (maybe both, that was my problem at first). Lean INTO the object: Now, this is scary, I must admit, and when I first learned this (trying to pedal-up to bashguard onto a picnic table (going the direction with the bench in front to be safer)), I planted my front wheel into the picnic table and stressed out my left wrist (didn't realize this til later), and later I smacked my front wheel on the picnic table when going head on, and smacked my head on the picnic table (I was wearing a helmet, thankfully!). But, you HAVE to lean forward, or INTO the object, to not lose your balance... I'd try to practice this on things that aren't too high so you don't run into this problem until you learn how to slide the front wheel over the object. At the last possible moment, you guide the front wheel up and over the object by pulling up your handlebars. The idea is that your body weight is way forward on the bike before you leave the ground, and when you start going up, you lift the handlebars up to get the front wheel to clear, and then push the handlebars forward to land the bashguard or rear wheel or both wheels onto the object, with your weight almost on top of the object (close enough so when you come to a rest, your body moves forward and balances perfectly on the object). When you've got this move perfect, you can pedal-up to bashguard onto a couple-inches thick wall without losing your balance over the other side (nothing to rest your front tire on, you see..). The pedal-up is one of the most useful moves I have learned. I can pedal-up to bashguard stuff that's a little higher than handlebar height on my Monty mod with a full spin (good foot forward in front at the beginning).


Bashguard to rear wheel

Practice only on objects where you are fully on the bashguard, and your rear tire cannot reach the ground. Also keep your front wheel off the obstacle (do practice on a ledge or something, such that if you mess up, you don't eat it hard)... Front wheel one inch or so above the obstacle is just fine. This makes it such that your balance rests completely on the bashguard. You need to learn a new balance point. Bashguard balance, let's call it. If you lose your balance forward and your front wheel touches the obstacle, you lose (if there were nothing in front of you, you would've fallen!). If you lose your balance backwards and your rear wheel touches the ground, you lose (if there were nothing there for your tire, you may have fallen off).

Once you think you have this bashguard balance down, try this little exercise... Make little hops to the left or right (work on both sides), maintaining this bashguard balance all the time. See how this is helping you to work your way to doing bashguard to rear wheel?

Now that you are ready, remember that you do NOT want to hop forward when you do bashguard to rear wheel. You also want to make sure that your rear wheel is not touching the object if at all possible, as that makes things tougher. You want to hop STRAIGHT UP with your weight over the BB, pull the bike up into you and then push the handlebars up and out and aim the rear wheel for the spot your bashguard was. When you land, you should stick it (not immediately lose your balance forward or backward). If you have the problem of your front dropping down immediately after you try to do it, try thinking that you're jumping your body back a bit, and you should eventually get it just right (you'll really be jumping straight up through, this tip is just to fool your mind). It's a power move, no doubt.


Bunnyhop

So, you've learned the pedal-up, but now you're trying to get up really big stuff, and the pedal-up isn't working for you, huh? What you want is to do a bunnyhop-up. Now, I haven't got bunnyhop ups down yet (you don't really need this til expert/pro), and I can only bunnyhop onto something like 2 feet high, but I know I can explain it pretty well (any advice anyone would like to add would be helpful!).

I think it goes something like this: Pick up some speed far away from the object, coast a bit, then at the right time, crouch down on the front of the bike, shoot the BIKE forward with your butt down so the front comes up a bit, then shift your weight forward and spring up off the pedals from your crouched position while the front comes up MORE. As you start to take off, push the handlebars up and out and squish your legs up, clear the object (imaginary object when practicing at first), then stretch your legs out to absorb the landing. It's like learning to trackstand, it takes a while to learn it, and no amount of great instruction is going to MAKE you be able to do it. Practice it and you'll eventually get it. Getting up onto bashguard is essentially the same as the pedal-up, as far as maintaining your balance goes.

Here's what Aaron Lutze had to say about it after practicing with Lenosky for a while -
"A lot [of the height in a bunnyhop] comes from pushing the bike out in front of you, so your bike levels off, instead of the front wheel higher than the back... Normally, I lift the front tire over the top then just push forward as hard and fast as I can..."


Surge

This move is very advanced, it's the kind of thing you'll see the Spanish riders doing all the time. It's useful when you have absolutely NO space for a run-up at an object. From rest, you put your butt way back and then thrust your hips forward and do an explosive pedal-kick, lift the front and land either bashguard, rear wheel, or both wheels on the object. I suggest doing this about 3 or so inches back from 1 foot tall objects when you start learning, but you need to move back when you try bigger things (don't want to plant your front into the object, do you?) When you go bigger, you may want to go at an angle to the object (like 45 degrees) and do a surge that's half-way between a pure sidehop and a pure head-on surge. You can either land the same way you started (45 degrees or whatever to the object), or turn in mid-air and land head on.. Depends on whether or not you think you'll catch your front tire on the object. This is a weird move, it'll take practice, but after a bit, you should be able to get both wheels onto an object at least a foot high from directly in front of it. Oh, did I mention learning this will do wonders for your pedal-kicking? You'll be able to gap big stuff if you encorporate this into your pedal-kick gap technique.

Manual

The key to manualing is body placement. There is a "sweet spot" one must find in order to execute the manual successfully. Center of gravity has a major role in this creating the optimum placement of the body in relation to the bike's bottom bracket, which is designed to be the place where most of the weight on the bike is located. The purpose of this is to put the weight lower on the bike to create a more stable ride. As we all know, when the "sweet spot" is violated, you end up on the ground unless you caught it with the brake soon enough.

One's body must be centered over the bottom bracket at all times to maintain this balance that keeps the bike stable, no matter what angle it is at. During a manual, the front wheel floats while the rear wheel tracts underneath the rider, whose body acts as the counterbalance that keeps the angle of the front end of the bike in relation to the amount of weight placed over the bottom bracket. For example, if a rider manuals with the front wheel close to the ground, most of the rider's weight needs to placed behind the bottom bracket to counteract the forces pulling the front wheel down. On the other hand, if the rider manuals with the front wheel high, most of his/her weight will be placed more over the bottom bracket than a low manual. The reason for this is to keep the front wheel from traveling too far backwards, which would cause the rider to fall off the back painfully.

In order to attempt a manual successfully for the first time, find a hill that has a very slight angle and ride down it. Without too much speed, move your bodyweight rearwards slowly to get used to the weight transfer and how it effects the handling of the bike. When you find that you are comfortable with your effort to transfer your weight, give the bars a gentle tug while you are transferring your weight and the front wheel will leave the ground. In essence, this is a manual, but in order to do a manual for more than a few inches, you need to keep experimenting with your "sweet spot" on the bike, shifting your weight fore and aft to correct for the changes in speed and front wheel height changes that drastically effect the path of the manual. Once you have figured out how to find the "sweet spot" of the manual, you can experiment with combinations of bunnyhops and manuals that create the ability to bunnyhop onto something and hold the front wheel high and manual the length of the obstacle. The higher the ledge, the harder it becomes to hold the front end up to start the manual and compete the trick. Technique and practice both play large roles that create the perfect manual.

Manuals are used in BMX racing as well. When one races BMX, he/she wants to be the fastest rider on the tract in order to take the win. When a rider leaves the ground during a race, they are losing speed and momentum. A speed jump is then used to keep the bike on the ground and turn in the fastest time. Speed jumps are manuals that are the main difference between a racer and a casual dirt jumper who strives to catch air and get jacked up.

Remember--practice is key and pain can be part of the game, but we must learn from our mistakes and correct so we don't do it again.


Front Wheel Hook Up

In this up, you get up an object by smacking into it and using the front wheel as a hook to pull yourself up. Watch the video to really understand what it looks like... This technique will not work for all objects, only ones which you can find a hook for your front wheel on... I've seen video of Cesar using this technique to get up a box that's taller than him!

Start higher than you can get up with a pedal up or bunnyhop... It's easier to learn on a downhill, in my opinion... You want to aim your front tire over the obstacle and hook it (which you do with your arms)... As soon as you hit the object with both tires, you hook the front and flex the fork and use the rebound to get up... Think of it like this... When you hit the object with your front wheel hooked, you should be able to jump off the pedals to get the bike to go up because the front wheel is hooked... You just can't wait until you've stopped moving forward to make the motion... Hit and go... Timing is everything with this move... You've gotta figure out the finer points of this one for yourself.. Good luck!

先佔版面以便後續翻譯文使用.................................................................

一樣是佔版面的..........................................................................

我也可以幫忙喔~^^
小弟稍微有翻譯的經驗

引用 AZONG 的文章-

我也可以幫忙喔~^^
小弟稍微有翻譯的經驗

讚啊! 值得翻譯的資料非常多, 多人加入一定會有更多譯文造福大家, 可以的話SETUP這一段就交給AZONG了, 其他人也歡迎認領各章節共襄盛舉.

攀岩車設定指南

小車 - 平把的角度︰ 從直立算起(向上),大約向後調整10-15度角(向斜後上方翹)。 這樣調整,點跳起來會更穩定。 手把調整要看角度的話,把車子靠在牆上,從旁邊看著來調整是比較好的方法。

大車 - 平把角度︰ 從直立算起(向上),大約向後調整10-15度角(向斜後上方翹)。 這樣調整,點跳起來會更穩定。 手把調整要看角度的話,把車子靠在牆上,從旁邊看著來調整是比較好的方法。
(沒講彎把)

剎車手把位置︰ 裝的距離要離握把套夠遠,以至於手掌握著握把套靠近兩端時,食指伸直剛好可以抓住煞車柄的末端。 剎車最好只用一根手指按。

剎車手把角度︰ 從水平算起,向下調整35-40 度左右或者更向下。 重點是剎車手柄裝好後,用起來能確保你的手背平面和你的前臂平行(這樣手腕就不會過度向上或下傾斜，比較不容易引起運動傷害) .

剎車柄按壓下去的行程(距離)︰ 我個人習慣的煞車行程是,用力按下去時，煞車柄跟手把差不多平行，對我來說這樣用比只按一點的還要習慣.既使是在煞車按著的情況下,這樣設定會讓拉手把感覺輕鬆點,並握起來更有力. 要注意的是,在煞車壓到底之前的距離越長(煞車行程)，煞車力道越小, 通常 ... 我喜歡我的剎車這樣裝,完美而且不用去調整煞車壓力鈕

鏈條鬆緊度︰ 越緊越好。拉得越緊飛輪越容易壞.看一下這張圖,鏈條鬆緊度剛好和不可接受之間的差別。 (見照片)

胎壓︰ -這是最重要的事情之一﹗ 我通常推薦用最低的胎壓,只要不會蛇咬或被撞破。我體重大約快79公斤,在小車上我前輪用25psi(IRC MinuteMan 2.1),後輪用20~25psi(fatwall monty 胎環)。 大車上我前後輪都用26psi(前胎Hutchinson Python Gold 2.0哈金森蟒蛇2.0 黃金胎，後輪Tioga Factory DH 2.3). 如果你身高比較高,手較比較長,或是身體姿勢位置偏向後面,就要增加後輪胎壓。 如果你的後輪感覺好像容易會蛇咬，就增加胎壓. 如果你的身體(手腕，膝蓋，腰背部) 因為騎車會感到疼痛，這可能是輪胎太硬,胎壓太高。 又或者是你的剎車把角度，龍頭跟手把角度有問題,不然就是車架有問題。 又或者.....你需要多騎一下。 : -)

另外要講的是,要用BMX踏板或尖齒踏板(不可用卡踏或太平滑的踏板)

剎車裝得好就會很好用。 如果煞車鎖死的力量不足夠或不好(這裡是講沒有打磨的輪框), 拿菜瓜布剪下幾塊長條形的細片,塞在煞車皮和輪框中間,然後這樣子去騎個15分鐘直到鎖死的效果比較好。也可以用砂紙或者粗糙紙。這樣子搞會改善鎖死跟煞車效果(這方法也適合登山車).

如果你用瀝青或焦油，就要不時清潔你的輪框。 噴一點加水稀釋的洗碗精在輪框上,然後去騎一下並不時按剎車,這樣焦油可以簡單地用衛生紙把它擦掉 ... 不留下任何殘渣.或者,更快速輕鬆的方式是用去漆劑和衛生紙...用完以後要等到去漆劑乾了再騎,不然就是騎到它乾掉. 我強調瀝青或磨輪框並不是必需的,除非你已經玩到高手或職業的水準。(順帶一提，輪框磨得好而不去用瀝青,對那些高手來說反而實用...) 事實上，性能普普的剎車將讓你變得更厲害。如果你也用大車去登山越野的話,不要在輪框上抹瀝青或焦油或者磨輪框，(除非你想一路忍受煞車的噪音或者.....前面剎車按太大力而翻車) .

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穿戴護具

騎攀岩車時，請合適地穿戴護具。 這表示至少戴一頂正確適合的安全帽,並且依個人喜好看要不要再戴手套和小腿護具。戴手套防止結繭並且在摔車時保護你的手，以及帶來更好的觸感(握感)。 小腿護具幫助保護你的脛骨,以免當你的前腳從踏板上滑掉,體重轉到後腳踏板上,造成踏板反轉,前腳就容易被踏板打到。 幾乎每個有經驗的攀岩車騎士都能告訴你這很痛，並且身上都有傷痕可以證明。許多自行車服裝公司生產小腿護具，還有很多騎士甚至還用足球的護具。

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伸展熱身

對於騎車前是否該做伸展,有各種各樣的論點。我建議你自己研究，並找到最適合你的方式。在騎車之前，我不作伸展，但是我會在剛騎車時慢慢騎當作暖身。 我會在騎完後作伸展來減少肌肉緊繃和疼痛感，並在一天當中不時來個伸展以保持身體的柔軟度。 這些作伸展熱身與騎車的關係對你可能有用

這麼快AZONG就完成一大段真是太感動了, 我的打字速度慢沒辦法這樣快就打出這麼一大篇的.

在PO出一段原文以後願意認領翻譯的請先出聲以免重複, 對其中意義不明的字也歡迎提出討論, 各階段的翻譯完成後由FRANK檢視及調整後另行登在專欄中, 需要調整的原因是為了統一專有名詞, 使譯文能有一貫性及符合習慣用法.

FRANK 覺得如何?

新PO上來的一段是"定竿"的部分, 雖然站上也已經有關於定竿的說明, 但是不同的人寫的資料還是會有其特別的觀點, 因此還是值得都看一下, 徵求翻譯中.

那我繼續翻吧.....= =
又是15字限制

定竿(停留原地單靠輪子小幅度來回滾動維持平衡)

注意到這裡︰

基礎非得學習的第一件事就是定竿。 也就是當你騎車時要停留在小範圍內平衡，並儘可能努力不去讓你的車子移動。 對許多人來說這是最難學的(至少對我來說)， 所以當練習覺得困難時不要感到灰心而放棄。 我想在我能夠相當輕鬆做出定竿之前，也大約花了2個月來練習。 練習相當地重要，你越是去練定竿，就越能熟悉抓到技巧。 我敢說你以後一定能夠體會...

練習方法介紹︰

去找一個很平緩的上坡平面作為練習地點。（練習時車子要朝向上坡）

確認哪支腳是你的正腳(前腳)，就是那支放在前面會感覺比較舒適習慣又好操控的那隻相當非常很重要不能輕視的腳

騎上你的車，讓正腳擺在前面

踩一下之後讓他自然滾動直到速度慢下來接近停止(在這動作裡全程都不要按剎車)

保持你前後踏板等高，且與地面平行(騎攀岩車時幾乎一直都保持這個姿勢)

(如果你騎在坡面上，前後踏板不能跟坡度保持平行，而是要保持水平，跟地平線保持平行)

手把跟前輪要打偏向一個方向，讓前輪離你前腳大約呈45度(左正腳，前輪朝右邊偏； 右正腳，輪子則向左打)

為什麼要這樣？ 把前輪打偏將更有益於你腰背部的健康。 舉例來說，如果你是左正腳的騎士，作這個姿勢時你的骨盆將整個順時針轉向右邊。 避免過度扭曲你的脊椎骨(特別是下方的腰椎)， 你的肩膀應該也要順時針轉偏向右邊，因此左正腳的姿勢，前輪要向右邊偏。

在小坡度上練定竿時，試著用正腳輕輕踩一下踏板保持平衡，將整台車子保留在原來的位置不動

癲跳是能幫助一下定竿，可是盡量不要用這個方式來輔助，練習才有意義 ... 輕踩踏一下讓輪子向前稍微滾動一下， 然後腳放鬆(不繼續踩)並藉由坡度讓車子再自然往回滾一點。就這樣簡單地重複這個動作來練定竿。

你頭要向前看，視線必須保持在接近前輪軸心的位置

兩隻手臂伸直但不需要用力，保持著姿勢就行

你的前腿一定要伸直

你的後腿要稍微彎曲來幫助定竿平衡，並且還能靠轉動輪子的方式，以及在車上擺動變換你的身體重心位置 (聽起來很難，但確實就是這麼難........努力練習許久之後才能夠抓到技巧，達成自然地去定竿平衡成為本能反應，騎了一年多後我才能在大多數任何障礙上定竿，且不感到吃力)

定竿時頭舉高，視線看向前方大約一公尺多的地方 --- 這樣比頭低低往下看容易保持平衡

有一點相當重要︰ 盡量放輕鬆。 拼命用力試著控制你的車單純只是使你的身體更加感到酸痛。等到你已經學會平衡時，定竿就只是小兒科了

太厲害了, AZONG打字一定像機關槍一樣.

基本技巧篇全部原文都PO上來了, 有勞AZONG有空再翻譯下去了.

舉前輪

這裡介紹一種利用前輪向左或向右跳的方法，後剎車要一直鎖住。

要讓你的前輪舉起來癲跳︰
你的後剎車就一定要鎖死

首先把你的身體放鬆手臂有點蜷縮，想像手臂跟上半身都癱軟且重心前移到車子的前半部

然後雙手往下壓手臂打直拉起前輪，同時並且身體稍微向後躺的感覺把重心往後拉

套句Ot Pi教學的話︰ 讓你的身體跟避震器一樣 ... 像環狀彈簧一樣彈 ...

當你開始上下癲動你的前輪之後，嘗試在身體下縮的時候把車子向左右任何一邊壓過去傾倒(你要是身體縮下去後不馬上向上彈回來，就會連人帶車向傾的那邊倒下去)。如果你縮下去後有接著拉起來的話，就會自動向傾斜的那方向轉過去。

值得注意的是，向左向右舉前輪時要是你把體重很直接地分佈在手把以及踏板上，車子又立得直直的(就一般站在車上的姿勢)，這樣你很容易就會失去平衡並往那個方向倒。所以當你舉前輪時，前輪要落地的瞬間，車子要傾斜跟身體拉出一點角度，這樣的姿勢能夠緩衝撞擊並平衡車子，如此一來你就能輕鬆地接著作定竿來平衡。

接著試著用癲動前輪的方式，選個方向小幅度地癲動，來轉一個圈(轉一圈大約要癲20下左右)。要加以練習才能夠在一圈內將癲的幅度大小給控制好，最好持續地練習直到你熟悉這動作的操控感，還要能控制癲的力道幅度

一旦你真的學會了舉前輪轉方向，就試著自己去搞些變化跟花樣出來吧(這是更難的技巧，你可能要跳過這部份等到其他技巧都學了再回來讀這裡...):
雖然你知道車子要往你想轉的方向傾斜，但在這裡你要學的是一種先向反方向傾的加力動作。

-------加力動作就是你必須特意先將車子傾斜向你想轉的方向的反方向(我知道你可能會感到奇怪， 但你等一下就瞭了)

做舉前輪轉的加力動作， 你的車子要往反方向傾斜， 也可以一起將把手朝反方向轉(如果你能不用轉把手，也是可以的)。 同樣地要把你的屁股往反方向轉。 上面講的這些動作你要在一瞬間一次全部一起做出來， 然後就是要把你的屁股手把統統向你想轉的方向都給扭轉回去將力量爆發出來變成旋轉的力道。 你能用這種方法轉到180度， 如果你在旋轉的過程中持續將身體重心後躺並將把手向上拉往身體靠，你應該就能轉到360度了(這點我經常忽略 ...)

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不鎖死煞車來拉前輪

這動作對騎車爬上人行道很好用，並且跟豚跳有很大的關係。

幾乎跟你舉前輪的動作相同 ... 先縮彎你的手臂， 然後向下壓手把伸直手臂推出去並且把屁股向後向下蹲下去，看哪，前輪這樣就會翹起來了。

當你熟悉這動作，你應該就能向上拉得很高以致於你在車子上從後面摔下來(這就是叫你不要用卡式踏板的原因)。

試著用這招爬上一個人行道的高度。 不要擔心，如果你以時速八公里左右去撞到人行道，並不會傷到人或車。

在你前輪碰到人行道之前，拉起前輪

從這個動作我們就能分辨出那些騎在路上的自行車騎士，是只會騎登山車遛達的人，或是有在練攀岩車技巧的...

當你的後輪也快碰到人行道時，讓你的身體向前移動直到頭的位置向前超過前輪軸，並帶點跳躍的感覺(也就是把體重從後輪上抽掉)， 這樣當你的後輪撞到人行道時，它自然會向上彈起來並滾過人行道這個高度。這並不是爬上人行道最好的方式，但對你來說，在你能夠把後輪拉起來之前，這招很管用了。

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拉後輪

前輪剎車要鎖死，利用這招來讓你的後輪向左或向右舉。

做這動作，一開始你要先轉動手把偏向其中一個方向，而當你做完這個動作，後輪落地時手把是跟車子呈垂直的手把轉的方向跟你的後輪要轉的方向相反)。 現在輪到你的腿了，把你的一雙腿當成是避震器。首先前面剎車要鎖死，接著你的身體要蹲下去一點，然後身體向前方帶點偏向左或偏右(你想轉的方向)跳起來，利用你的屁股來轉動你的車(將車子推向你想要的一個位置並讓後輪著陸在那點上)。 我認為這動作中你對屁股的掌握度絕對會影響到你控制的移動距離。許多騎攀岩車的人也是都會教你把身體重心向你要的方向轉過去，然後讓你的車跟著身體的力量轉過去。這點跟側跳的技巧很像。你很快就會知道了...呵呵 ; -p


向上拉後輪而不靠剎車 - [回到概述 ]
這動作讓人不得不在意是，這就是豚跳的基礎，並且會讓許多你想學的動作變得簡單容易並且更好上手。這動作的方法是，一開始在車子緩慢向前滾的時候，身體重心稍微移向後輪上方，接著很快地跳起來把身體重量向前輪移，並向前方推往下壓你的手把。這樣你就會把身體的重量從踏板上抽掉了...很快你就能學會了。你要抓住的感覺就是，控制你的體重分配到踏板上的百分比到怎樣小的程度，而且腳要粘著踏板。當你能做好這動作，就能把你的後輪抬到天殺的程度那樣高到嚇死人嚇死小朋友嚇死老太公太婆，同樣地你應該就能接著靠鎖死前輪讓後輪轉個180度了，那現在你可以試著在向前滾的時候，把上面教的東西都混在一起，搞些變化跟花樣出來玩。

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螃蟹上樓梯（側爬上樓梯）

現在你一定很有成就感囉？ 舉前輪拉後輪跟旋轉都學會了...不錯﹗現在來學更要求準確度的動作。從向上爬樓梯開始，因為爬下樓梯很容易失去平衡而摔下一整排的階梯，你可能會害死自己。這也提醒我，初學時側爬樓級最多一次爬兩層或三層階梯就好。首先把你前輪側拉到第一個階梯的平面上，再把後輪朝同一個方向往上拉進去落在同一個階梯平面上...這有點難，所以多練習吧。再來講爬下樓梯，首先要把後輪拉下去，然後再把前輪跟著拉下來。等到你真的熟悉了，試著把步驟顛倒，爬上樓梯時改成從後輪先開始，爬下樓梯改成從前輪先開始。


癲跳平衡
癲跳在像是岩石表面這些凹凸不平的地面上保持平衡是很好用的。在你試著抓住平衡，但感覺開始失去平衡抓不回來時，就可以用癲跳來修正你的平衡點。前後煞車都要鎖死，整個人站在踏板上來上下輕微跳動車子(輪子要離地)，用你整個身體來吸收震蕩。 只要你已經學會不靠剎車來拉後輪，你應該就能做出來這個動作。 一旦你用過這招從一小段高度向下跳，就可以試著用這招向上跳樓梯。你先把前輪拉起來放在一兩個階梯上，然後把身體往你想要的方向傾靠過去，接著朝那方向跳。希望你有成功，讓前後輪都向上跳了一層階梯... 試著用相同的方式來向下跳樓梯。比起石頭，在樓梯上練這樣的動作算是很安全了。 當定竿不管用的時候，要平衡的話就靠癲跳了。當你失去平衡時，記住前後輪都要鎖死，才能在前後輪上小癲來抓回平衡點(你要自己找出哪些情況下用哪種方式自己做起來比較輕鬆)。通常我盡可能只去癲我的前輪，因為這樣作比去癲後輪還要來得省力。這動作對於把你的前後輪，小癲移動到台階或物體邊緣之後側邊跳下來，或是大幅度地把你的身體跟車子向上拉，像是側跳這樣的大動作，又或者是要作踩跳爬上障礙物，以及更多其他進階動作準備要作之前的平衡，靠這招癲跳真的很好用。

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開始爬高一點的障礙

既然你已經能上下爬樓梯，就能開始去爬更大的障礙，只要你能把前輪拉到障礙上面(用這方法不太能爬上很高的障礙，但是這對大約30多公分的障礙已經很管用...). 首先把你的前輪側邊轉拉到障礙物上，然後人帶車旋轉調整角度直到你正對著你要爬的障礙物。踩一下向前滾接著把正腳踏板向下踩，讓正腳踏板放在障礙物上擺好(如果在放下踏板之前你的護盤撞到了障礙物，可以再向後癲跳一下調整位置)。 重點來了，怎樣爬上去？把你的體重向前方移動，直到超過BB軸的位置，將全部體重都放到正腳踏板上踩下去，同時向上向前把整台車子跟著拉上去。 這樣子車子後輪應該就能滾上去了。你第一次試，可能只有把後輪稍微拉起來一點，然後就掉下去了沒有爬上來，但是你要一直嘗試並去想像他的原理跟方法，這樣你很快就能抓到要領。

進階篇的內容總量比基本篇多約一半, AZONG 慢慢來喔, 別累死了, 我們不能沒有你!

不然贊助一罐諾得膠囊給我好了~^^

引用 AZONG 的文章-

不然贊助一罐諾得膠囊給我好了~^^

諾得膠囊是活性碳嗎? 我家有魚缸用的活性碳拿一大包給你吃好了.

那個沒用啦,　要喝保力達P才會像一尾活龍!

更高等的招式

側跳落下

在你能夠徹底掌控你的後輪之前，這是從障礙物上跳下的最安全的方式（只要你的動作做得正確，單靠後輪跳下對車子跟身體來講都比較輕鬆，但如果你失誤了就會變得比較危險）。首先癲跳到你準備要跳下的邊緣旁，接著身體縮低並將重心往你要跳出去的方向傾斜過去，當你準備好了（時間很短，你必須快速做出反應，否則你可能會發現車輪卡著失去平衡，人從上面摔下來，再被跟著掉下來的車子砸到），稍微帶一點高度地跳把你的兩個輪子都從邊緣上跳出去（或者更高等的技巧是，先把手把向側拉，讓前輪先離開邊緣，只要你想這樣作的話），在你開始落下的時候要將手把往身體方向拉，雙腿向下踢。這樣做的話會讓後輪比前輪先著地，感覺就比較輕鬆柔軟。盡量試著靠你的後輪來吸收大部分的衝擊力道，這樣一來轉移到身體跟車架BB軸和曲柄的震盪就會小很多，比較不會受到傷害和破壞。使用這個技巧，就算是從一百五十公分高的地方跳下來，也能一派輕鬆帶著笑容安全落地。

拉前輪點跳
你開始想學單靠後輪點跳並向前踩出去之前，應該先學會用後輪點向後跳這項動作。先把後輪煞車鎖死，跟著把身體往前靠，再迅速地往後把車子拉起來（先不用跳，只要拉起來），拉起來後再往後跳。如果你用這招拉起來後沒辦法往後跳出距離，那試試這招：跳的時候把你的屁股蹲低些，屁股對這動作影響很大（我幾乎忘了這件事，因為我的動作都習慣了）。你能向後跳了，就試著加入雙腳下壓踏板的動作，並嘗試拉起來後輪站立時停留在原本的位置（手臂要彎曲，不然會拉傷你的腰椎跟肩膀）。再來才學著靠踩踏板向前跳...

原地後輪點跳
你學會了後輪點向後跳，接著就學看看原地的後輪點吧。反正你一定能克服困難學會的。同時這也是你熟悉姿勢的最佳時機。自然地你會彎曲雙臂而非伸直，不然你的腰椎跟肩膀都會覺得很吃力（腰酸背痛五十肩）。另一項技巧是保持你的雙腳曲柄與地面的平行...如果你的正腳踏板比後腳踏板來得高，就很容易會促使你往後跳。有種方法能自然地讓你的雙腳曲柄跟地面平行，那就是靠踩的方式來拉前輪作後輪點立。要是你真的覺得很難去讓你的曲柄保持與地面平行，那你應該就是身體太往後了，可以試著將手把往身體拉近一點來修正。

踢踏板（點跳）
你已經會後輪點的基礎了，再來就要學踢踏板。作這動作首先是後輪點時不能跳動，讓前輪往下降一點高度（大約四分之一），接著迅速踢下踏板！你也許覺得這動作很難做，反正時間久了你就熟了。這招式的原理是讓後輪鎖死時你踢下踏板的力量釋放出來。當後輪鎖死的情況下，你用力踩下踏板（時間很短卻出力很大，所以算踢），緊接著鬆開後煞車，腳繼續踢下去並向前方彈射出去，然後當你落地時再跟著按後煞車鎖死後輪。我知道這很難，只要你多練就能掌握好訣竅。

等到你抓到感覺了，試著在跳出去之前把你的前輪放得更低，再踢得更大力一點...就能跳更遠。那再來你可以把屁股更往後，讓前輪降低到快碰到地面，跟著馬上把屁股往前移靠向龍頭，在屁股移到龍頭的過程一半時就開始踢踏板（或者等到靠近龍頭的時候再踢：有一個初學者發現他往前靠多一點的時候再踢踏板會更帶有力量，能多跳六十公分的距離）。你至少要能跳出快一台攀岩車的距離。我能跳到180公分，甚至還聽過有人跳出三公尺以上的距離（看高手的影片，Cesar差不多跳到兩公尺半）。想跳出更遠的距離？抓出更好的跳躍方式你就能得到更遠的距離。

更高等的技巧：如何在跳遠之後繼續保持後輪定的平衡
要繼續保持平衡的技巧就是要用腿把後輪踢向你看到的著地點。當你以雙腿將後輪踢出去的同時，自然而然地就會將把手往屁股的方向拉進來，而當你的後輪踢下去時，在半空中整台車子就好像垂直一樣。為了踢後輪你也不能將雙腿伸得僵直，因為還要吸收落地的撞擊，著地瞬間你的雙腳就會自然蹲下（這自然會促使你的身體做出姿勢保持平衡）。

後輪點跳落下
對初學者而言：只要能安全地做出動作，這是跳下落差最好的方式。如果你對要跳下的地形障礙並不熟，那就不要這樣跳。因為你可能會翻過車子摔下來重傷。先找個平坦一點的地方來練習。都市裡的地形就很適合，從人行道開始練起。先讓前輪滾到邊緣，然後點跳前進讓後輪跳到邊緣，接著放低前輪，再輕踢一下踏板跳下去。就像之前在側向跳下裡講過的一樣，要先讓後輪著地。

高等技巧：在你從邊緣向前跳出去之前，試著讓你的後輪點向更邊緣的程度。你越是接近邊緣，就更要把前輪放低（跟後輪呈水平）而不用花什麼力氣去踢踏板跳下落差。動作作對了你至甚根本不用踢踏板，只要放開後煞車讓後輪滾動並用腿踢出去就行。點跳下落差這動作要再更高等的作法就是每樣步驟都做得很極端，當從邊緣上準備跳下時，身體向後蹲超過後輪的位置，身體縮下去的時候將前輪放得比後輪還低一些（對我來說讓屁股移到比ＢＢ軸後面一點的位置這樣比較習慣），然後拉把手往身體靠得同時用腳把後輪踢出去開始往下掉，再來一樣是先用後輪吸收衝擊，跟著就是前輪自然輕柔地落下碰觸到地面（不要把體重全部都壓在後輪上，這樣落地的衝擊反而會全部跑到身體上）。你騎上車子跟著上面講的作一遍看看...後輪點跳到邊緣準備跳下去，先將前輪放低，接著放開後煞車自然地壓後輪壓下去，你將能體會到用這方式跳下落差的感覺好像就不是那麼高了，因為這招讓懸空的高度縮水了...　利用這招你能讓從餐桌跳下來的樣子看起來跟跳下人行道的樣子差不多（只要你做對了，懸空的高度真的就是變成只有人行道那樣）。接著給一個例子，順著這個道理想，只要你懂了就應該能曉得這招式的原理。當你在站一個３０公分高的台子上，要從上面跳下地面，難道你會直接從上面雙腿直直地走下來嗎？當然不可能，你的雙腿一定會彎得很多，甚至是先兩腳踩在邊緣，然後重心前移腳掌往前滑出後往下踢來落地的...這招式就是同樣的原理來應用在攀岩車上的。

一些不同的看法：問過我的朋友史提夫，他是夏威夷跳高跳遠的攀岩車高手，問他說怎樣跳下兩公尺多以上的高度。他以前騎過小車從將近四公尺的高度跳下來，他還說不能單只靠後輪著地因為這樣子全部的衝擊力會跑上來你的身體上（就好像你跳下來著地時雙腿伸得僵直一樣慘）。然後他給的建議是，要從邊緣跳出來時前輪一定要放低，讓車子前後輪水平後再踢下後輪並開始降落，這樣子降落後輪才會先碰到地面，接著就是將身體往後傾利用這樣來吸收衝擊力，但還要讓前輪自然地跟著撞地來跟著吸收分散衝擊的力道。
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喝保x達BORIDA我會死更快吧(better right death).....................= =
mark去找看看英國的文章
英國人比較厲害
biketrials.com講的東西還不夠

最好是能夠找到雜誌還是電視節目合作拍攝~
建構一套完整的教學指南
讓內容連騎登山車的人都能練

最後一部分原文又來了.

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踩跳

現在要教你怎樣應用踩踏板加跳躍的方式來征服大多數的障礙物（這招式可用來卡護盤，雙輪上，後輪上（或前輪上，但我覺得那樣沒什麼意思））。跟豚跳往上跳比起來不同的是，用豚跳你先要帶點速度，然後在滾動的時候做出跳上去的動作。踩跳的優勢是，你不需要一段助跑滾動的距離。一開始，讓車子緩慢向前滾動，速度慢慢地就行了，前方也不必有障礙物，平坦的地面最好，反腳要先擺在前面，正腳在後，做動作時身體先趴下一些，然後拉車把(身體別往後)同時反腳往下踩讓前輪跟著被帶起來，腳要繼續踩直到正腳回到前面的位置（等於踩了半圈，這時候車子應該是拉垂直了），這樣你應該就可以跳離地面...　你不必特意用腿踢讓護盤去卡在障礙物上，只要落地時正腳在前面就行... 如果你還有將車把往斜前方推並彎曲你的雙腿，這樣就能一次兩輪跳上障礙物。要是你將車把往上推並彎曲雙腿，就能單靠後輪跳上障礙物。一定要確定你的煞車夠緊，輪子鎖死了雙腳伸出去才能吸收落地的衝擊力，不要以為輪胎抓地力好或是煞車皮好就行了，那樣還不夠... 等到你學會了在稍微滾動的時候踩跳，就來試試在靜止的狀況下，從離障礙物一個車身多的距離踩跳，或者從更遠的距離並改由正腳開始踩，做踩一圈的踩跳。在踩一圈的踩跳的動作裡，開始時正腳踩下去是為了製造出一點速度，然後踩反腳把前輪帶起來，剩餘步驟跟上面講過的一樣。接著嘗試從更短的距離開始，首先為了要帶出速度，身體要先往後靠蹲低（感覺好像會把前輪拉起來那樣），然後迅速將身體往前方靠同時間用力踩踏板。剛開始時正腳踏板踩下去是為了製造出向前進的動能，接著反腳快速踩踏的力量就是能在很短的距離裡將你的人跟車子跳上障礙物的主要技巧。假使你遇到了卡護盤的問題，卡上去後身體很快就往後倒，那你就需要在跳上去同時將身體往前靠，或是縮短踩跳距離（又或者兩樣都要做，我以前就是這樣的問題）。把整個身體靠向障礙物：我必須承認這很恐怖，我第一次學這招式的時候（嘗試用踩跳的方法卡盤上餐桌（從有椅子的方向跳比較安全）），我把前輪放上餐桌上時壓到了左手腕（感覺到時已經太晚了），之後很大力地摔在餐桌上，頭也撞到餐桌上（還好當時有戴安全帽）。做這動作就是要往前靠，或往障礙物靠過去，並不能失去平衡... 我會選比較不高的障礙物來練習，那樣就不會遇到上面這種問題，直到你學利用前輪滑動的方式來攀上障礙物。另一種可行的方式是，利用拉車把來將前輪拉高到超越障礙物的高度。這方法利用的是你的體重，在你跳離地面之前，你的體重是有慣性地持續往前移動，而當你開始往上跳時，利用拉手把來讓整個人連車子懸空，接著向前推車把，利用體重以讓護盤或後輪或者兩輪都攀上障礙物（一開始跟障礙物的距離要夠近，這樣跳上障礙後你的身體能自然跟著往前挪並保持平衡）。等到你熟練了，就能踩跳卡盤上五六十公分的細牆而不會讓重心過於向前傾而失去平衡（沒有前輪著地的空間，懂嗎...）。踩跳是我學過的招式裡最常用到的。我能用一圈踩跳卡盤上比我的小車車把高一點的高度（從正腳在前開始踩）。


拔後輪

在你能完全卡到護盤的障礙上練習，而且後輪必須是懸空的。前輪也要從障礙上懸空（在一個形狀突出的石頭或是任何東西上練習，就算動作失敗，摔車也比較輕微）...前輪舉離障礙物２０公分以上最好，這樣子你就得完全依靠護盤來平衡。此刻你就要學會用護盤作為支撐點來平衡。這動作的名稱叫卡盤平衡。如果你失去平衡並往前靠，以至於前輪碰到障礙物，那就算失敗了（如果是在前方沒有著地點的情況下，你就摔下去了！）。要是你是往後倒，後輪碰到了地面，也是失敗（要是後面沒有可以讓後輪碰觸的支撐點，你應該是會往後摔出去）。

等到你認為你學會了卡盤平衡，那來試試這個... 卡盤時向左或向右跳（兩邊都要試），要一直維持著卡盤平衡。這樣子你能瞭解卡盤平衡對拔後輪的幫助了嗎？

基礎準備好了，但是要切記，拔後輪時你絕對不能往前跳。還有就是後輪絕對不能碰到障礙物或任何物體，那樣會阻礙這個動作。你要做的是，踩在踏板上直直地往上方跳，把車子跟著身體拉起來，然後將車把向前上方推出去，並把後輪的著落點對準原先卡盤的位置。著落時，姿勢要保持住撐著（不能往前往後倒）。假使你做這動作發現到你的前輪很快就掉下去了，就試著讓身體跳起來的時候往後靠一點，最終你必定能抓到最好的姿勢（反正就是要往上跳，你只要這樣想就夠了）。毫無疑問，這動作需要很大的力氣。


豚跳

雖然學會了踩跳，但要跳上相當高的障礙單靠踩踏板的力量已經不夠了是吧？那就要靠豚跳啦。直到現在我還沒熟悉豚跳（直到你變成高手前，其實你不需要學這招），我也只能跳到六十公分高的障礙，但至少我還能清楚解釋這動作（希望任何人能多提出一些看法）。豚跳應該是這樣：從遠一點的地方帶點速度向障礙物騎過去，然後自然滾動不踩踏板，要跳的時候身體先蹲下（重心不往後），然後向前推車把並把屁股往下壓將前輪拉起來後，輪子還在繼續上升的時候，身體要跟著站立跳起來並往前靠。確定整個車子都懸空後，繼續將車把往上往前方推出去同時雙腿要縮起來把後輪勾起來，跳上物體後（一開始可以先假想有個物體在前面做練習，不用真的跳上一個東西），接著伸腿吸收衝擊力。這和練定竿一樣需要時間來熟悉，並沒有短時間內就能讓你學會的秘訣。多練習就會了。豚跳上物體卡盤跟踩跳卡盤基本上差不多，都要注意到平衡。

在這裡，美國攀岩車友亞倫路茲要分享一下跟美國街車高手里那司基短暫學習的經驗：
”豚跳的高度取決於跳起來後將車推平的力道，而非一開始前輪拉起來的高度... 我通常都是把前輪拉起來到一個輪子的高度後就盡快用吃奶的力氣推出去...”


蹲跳

這是很高等的招式，西班牙的攀岩車友很常會用這種招式。在沒有助跑距離下要跳上高的障礙非這招莫屬了。首先，屁股往後蹲低，然後再迅速地把屁股往前移並大力的把踏板給他踩下去，前輪舉起來跳障礙後，接後輪著地，或雙輪，又也許是跳上去卡盤。剛開始練我建議你選個高度大概三十公分的障礙，從前輪距離十公分左右的位置練習，如果是更高的障礙那你的身體就要蹲得更低更後面（想先把前輪放到障礙上嗎？別想了）。當你練到高一點的障礙後，也許會想先把前輪放高一點先擺提高點角度（可能是45度）來蹲跳，這種蹲跳方式可以說是又混合了一點側跳的感覺。你能自己選擇上去障礙的方式（斜45度或任何姿勢），或是半空中旋轉然後跟障礙物成垂直將前輪掛上去... 全取決於你是否肯定你的前輪能不能夠掛上障礙物。這是個比較複雜的動作，需要多練習，只要練過一段時間，你至少能用蹲跳讓雙輪垂直地直接攀上30公分高的障礙。喔，我差點忘了說，練蹲跳會讓你踢踏板的技巧大幅提昇。你將發現到把蹲跳動作裡踩踏板的技巧融入到點跳裡，就能跳得更遠。


後輪滑行

這動作的關鍵是身體的重心位置。有一個絕對的”平衡點”，只要找到了就能成功地做出後輪滑行。ＢＢ軸是車架中用來承受大多數重量的位置，而將大多數的重量至中集中在ＢＢ軸上對於衡點可是相當重要的因素。讓大部分重量置中主要是讓人跟車子的重心壓低，騎起來更穩定。當然囉，你沒抓準那個平衡點的話，就會前輪落地或摔車，除非你儘快地利用煞車作輔助來加速找出平衡點的位置。

人的身體一定要置中將體重放在ＢＢ軸上來維持平衡，騎起來才會穩，不管前輪拉多高都是這樣。後輪滑行時，身體要固定好姿勢，保持車子拉起來的角度來平衡，而前輪拉起來的角度又取決於擺放到ＢＢ軸上的重量（看你分配多少體重壓在踏板上），有點像翹翹板。舉例來說，如果你滑行時讓前輪拉得很低幾乎快碰到地面了，你的身體位置就要往後壓到超過ＢＢ軸的位置，這樣來抵銷前輪壓低造成的前方重量。反觀前輪拉高來滑行的情況，分配到ＢＢ軸上的體重會比前輪放低滑行來得多。原因是要讓前輪不會繼續往後拉起來，否則騎在車上的人就會後面摔下來狗吃屎帶尿撒不完。

第一次練習滑行想要成功的話，找一個輕微的下坡來練習。用一點速度練就可以，去體會身體重心逐漸往後移對車子操控的影響。等到你習慣了去轉移身體的重心位置，再來試看看在轉移重新的同時去簡單地拉一下車把，這樣前輪就簡單地被拉起來。基本上，這樣就是滑行啦。如果想滑更遠，你就要不斷地練習去感覺平衡點，且要熟悉將身體重心前後移動來迎合滾動速度和前輪拉起高度變化會對滑行產生的影響。一旦你抓到了滑行的平衡點，就可以試著去做出豚跳和滑行的組合動作，像是豚跳上障礙時拉高前輪就直接繼續滑行滾完障礙物。障礙越高就越難在豚跳時拉著前輪高度繼續接滑行動作。要做出完美的滑行，技巧和練習兩者都不能少。

ＢＭＸ場地比賽裡也常見到滑行動作。任何ＢＭＸ選手都想維持在第一排位來贏得比賽。車子一懸空，就會失去速度跟向前進的能量。速度騰躍是一種減少騰空時間並最快速的跳土坡方式，這也有利用到滑行的姿勢，跟土坡車騎士飛土坡的方式比較起來，不同的是土坡車騎士都盡可能地飛高增加懸空時間。

切記－練習很重要也很難熬，就把它當作玩樂其中一部分，反正我們就是從錯誤中學習以避免重蹈覆轍。


掛翻

這動作是這樣的，一開始你有速度地跳上障礙物，跳上後用前輪掛住角落來撐住你的身體。仔細看攀岩車影片就能真正瞭解這到底是怎樣的動作.... 這招式不適用每一種障礙，只有你能掛得著前輪的障礙物才有辦法使用.... 我就看過西班牙攀岩車手Ｃｅｓａｒ用這招攀上比他的人還要高的箱子！

從一個比你能踩跳或豚跳上去的高度還要高的障礙物開始練.... 在我看來在下坡的地面練起來比較容易... 你要把前輪對準障礙物的上方並掛上去（用你的手臂來撐住）.... 一旦你兩輪都撞上障礙物了，前輪掛住後快速利用前叉壓縮後的回彈力來彈跳上去... 想想看.... 當你撞上障礙物，前輪掛住一個角落了，你應該是能讓腳離開踏板踩到障礙物上把車子拉上去，因為你的前輪掛住了.... 你不能等到整個向前的能量都沒了才準備跳上去.... 撞了就跳.... 這動作就是在一瞬間而已... 你得要自己找出作這動作自己最好用的姿勢是哪種.... 祝你好運！